26.01.09
Photographing Garden Birds
Words by Cheryl Surry
If you’ve ever looked at other people’s shots of birds and wondered why they seem much more cooperative (the birds, not the photographers), then read on. We have the answers. It’s simply a matter of staging. Entice the birds out of the trees and onto a ready-made perch, with a carefully prepared, clutter-free background.
Drawing a wide variety of visitors is important. These pictures were taken in my average-sized back garden. There is the small issue of the waste ground beyond the fence that offers lots of shelter for the birds, so relatively speaking, my garden is a danger zone for them. So I entice them with good bird food; offering a selection of foods is key.
My feeding station consists of two tree stakes pushed into the edge of the lawn, approximately two metres from the conservatory window. Behind the station I hang a camouflage net over the non-photogenic fence to provide a better background. Secured between the two tree stakes are a couple of twigs from different plants within the garden. Changing these gives a different look to my images.
It’s worth setting up a couple of feeders to attract the birds onto the perch. I filled one with peanuts to attract the blue tits and another has a fat feeder to attract the long-tailed and great tits. It’s also very important to make sure that your feeding station is safe from attack. Both local cats and squirrels will take an interest; the cats will be after the birds, the squirrels the food. There are several other feeders in my garden, but I remove these when I want to take photos, to encourage the birds into a narrower area, increasing my chances of a successful shoot.
Then it’s simply a case of putting the camera in position and waiting – patiently. It’s quite important to make yourself less visible to the birds, as they can be wary and are easily spooked. I cover the front conservatory window with a camouflage net and watch for the arrival of the birds though a small gap. Some species, such as crested tits and dunnocks, are more confident, but it’s best to err on the cautious side and remain as hidden as possible. For my set-up, I find a 300-400mm lens works best for frame-filling images.
Once you’ve started feeding the birds, don’t suddenly stop. They may have become reliant on your garden as a source of food. I feed all year round, varying the food type and quantity according to the season.
When you’ve got a regular flock of visitors, try introducing more creative props. They’ll soon get used to them, and this way you’ll get even more photo opportunities. And the weather offers yet more. If it’s tipping it with rain, don’t turn the camera off, just change the shutter speed. A slow setting of between 1/30sec and 1/60sec will record the raindrops too.
KIT BAG
Camouflage netting or material is so versatile for this kind of photography. It can be used to cover unsightly fences, create clutter-free backgrounds and hide you and your set-up. And it’s relatively cheap and easy to buy.
Try your local Army & Navy store or the Internet. For example, Wildlife Watching Supplies wildlifewatchingsupplies.co.uk offers camouflage material from £7 per metre.
DOs AND DONTs
Do:
- Check the background. Make it as clutter free as possible
- Feed regularly and throughout the year
- Shoot in a variety of weather conditions
Don’t:
- Stop feeding suddenly, especially in winter
- Crowd the birds. Keep your distance
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